Frequently asked questions

What else will I need for my new resin 3D printer?

Resin Top of the list is Resin. You can't print without it. There are a variety of resins, all with different qualities. Some have superb detail but may be brittle, some brands have a reputation for pungent odours. Some are intended for different technologies. EPAX 3D Printers require a resin suited to LCD masking with a UV curing wavelength of around 405nm. We carry EPAX 3D Resins, which is a high quality resin. We also offer Water Washable Resins. These prints can be cleaned in water without requiring chemicals like IPA to dissolve uncured resin. However this does not make them safe to clean under a running tap, care must be taken to ensure that resin does not enter the water supply.
Resin contains chemicals which can be toxic. When exposed to a UV light source or sunlight the resin hardens and the polymerisation reaction can be very hot. Avoid skin contact. Read the Material Safety Data Sheets for your resin, if none were supplied they should be on the manufacturer's website. Some people may suffer dermatological reactions to resin and some people find the odour unpleasant.
Resin Disposal
Post cure all waste resin and resin covered paper towels under UV light before disposal in the garbage.
Never put any resin or IPA down the sink, in the drains or back into the water supply.
Eye protection – Eye protection is cheap and available from any hardware stores. It is not unheard of for people to rub an itchy eye with a resin covered glove, it can be a very painful experience.
Nitrile or Neoprene Gloves – Nitrile are the usual choice. These are more resistant to resin than PVC. Do NOT use Latex gloves, they do not offer protection against resin. There is a time limit to the protection given which depends on the thickness of the glove.
Post Processing
IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) – The most commonly used fluid to remove excess resin from a finished print. Highly flammable. Alternatives to IPA are available.
Old jam jars with lids - Good containers to put the printed part into, fill with IPA and shake vigorously (as long as the lid is on) to remove uncured surface resin and to reveal the detail.
Paper Towels – There is always something to dry or mop up.
UV Source – Even though the print has completed there will still be some polymerisation left to happen. Most resins want a 405nm light source. LEDs tend to have a fairly narrow bandwidth so a 365nm LED won’t work as well as a 405nm LED. More traditional UV lightbulbs have a wider bandwidth. Sunlight is perfect, if you can find any in a Canadian winter. Nail varnish curing stations are very commonly used to cure small prints, others lay out 405nm LEDS into a shiny bucket or box.
Storage Containers – Handy receptacles for resin covered prints prior to the IPA wash and for IPA and resin soaked paper towels.
Clean Up
Paper Towels – There is always something to dry or mop up.
Paint Filters – These are automotive paint strainers, effectively paper cones with a very fine nylon mesh. Pour the resin from the vat through one of these back into the bottle. Small bits of cured resin in the vat can result in punctured FEP (the clear film in the bottom of the vat) and that results in resin in the machine and sometimes the LCD screen. The small pieces of cured resin can also point load the LCD masking screen and cause premature screen failures.
Funnel – The paint filters are paper and rather floppy. They are much easier to use when they are put into the funnel to get the resin back in the bottle.

What would be nice to have for my first resin printer?

Ultrasonic Cleaner – Why clean things by hand when a machine can do it for you? These can be very noisy, some come with inbuilt heating which can aid in cleaning. Never fill with IPA, flammable fumes and electricity are to be avoided. Fill a jamjar or ziplock bag with IPA and put the print inside. Fill the Ultrasonic Cleaner with water to just below the fill line and put the jamjar or ziplock bag in the water. Can also be used for cleaning watches and jewellery. We would recommend only buying a metal encased Ultrasonic cleaner (IPA tends to melt plastic) and that it has a capacity of at least 2L.
Heat Source – The polymerisation reaction is more effective when the resin is warm. Cold resin can have the consistency of treacle and can print badly. Cold resin will take longer to post cure as well. If (like many of us) you are printing in a garage or shed in the UK winter I recommend a simple enclosure and heat tube with temperature controller. An alternative is a heater situated in the printer. We are looking at stocking both heated enclosures and printer heaters in the near future. Or sneak the printer back into the house…
A Vat Draining Stand – It can be handy to have a stand to hold the vat to drain the resin into the paint filter and back into the bottle. You can end up holding the Vat for quite a while, especially if it is cold. Alternatively a little rubber squeegee to push the resin into the paint filter – but that requires more than 2 hands. There are a few Vat holder designs on Thingiverse that get good reviews for FDM printing. I have yet to print one.
Paper Towels – Because you tried to hold the vat and squeegee the resin out of it whilst supporting the paint filter without a funnel and you didn’t put the bottle in the take away container.
Another Printer – Or three.

Where can I find the manual for my EPAX 3D Printer?

You can find the EPAX 3D Printer manual here.

All EPAX 3D printers have the same touchscreen interface and menu options so this manual can be referenced regardless of model.

Where can I find Video Instructions for my EPAX 3D Printer?

You can find EPAX 3D Video instructions, Basic Tutorials, and Promotional Videos here. https://epax3d.com/pages/video-instructions

Where can I find details on EPAX 3D Resin Properties?

EPAX Resin Properties Not all EPAX 3D resins are on this sheet yet, but for the tests that were ran these are the results.

Where can I download EPAX 3D Firmware and Parameters Files?

Firmware and Parameters Files.